Once something becomes popular, it becomes expensive. I suppose we could attribute that to supply and demand, but it’s so damned annoying when it’s something that I like. That, and the innate desire to remain mysteriously cool by shunting popular culture becomes suddenly threatened. I hate when things deflate my ego.
So it was that obscure beef cuts are experiencing a revival. I was once privy to this inner circle of carnal knowledge (pun), due to chance employment in a butcher shop. I wielded steel with all the finesse of a ballet dancer, partitioning select cuts in a choreographed display of sensual manual dexterity. The deft motions of my fingers as they expertly performed their precise maneuvers drew crowds of young women from the cashier’s station, to stare, transfixed with burgeoning lust at the perfected model of masculinity at work. And that’s how I met my wife.
And that story is totally true, probably. If it happened the way I remember it anyway.
But where was I? Ah yes, the super-secret knowledge of steak. Of the more unusual cuts that the elder butchers would put out in the case, that no one ever bought because no one knew what they were, were the tri-tip and the parachute roast. As most meat ships from the slaughterhouses already partially sectioned, I never saw a whole steer. We would get regular shipments of half-steers, but never the whole. This is because it’d be terribly inefficient to butcher an entire steer without splitting it. I mention this because, in this process, a section of the diaphragm is lost. And in this section resided the elusive “butcher’s steak”, or the hanger steak. Yet since it was mentioned to me, and since I never saw one, it built in my mind a certain mystique. One day, I would try one.
Since those days, numerous articles had popped up extolling the taste and value of such underrated cuts. The hanger steak was among them, and so with the forgotten now being popular knowledge, the mystique died.
Then we visited Dayton’s 2nd Street Market, and a stand (locally-sourced beef) was selling them. $10 a pound was probably too much, but I had to honor a past promise to myself. So I bought it.
And as is with the allure of waiting for anything, the hype surpassed the experience, though it was not disappointing. To sum it up, the steak was as tender as any rib/loin cut, although it lacked the fatty flavor of the latter. But, it had a good beefy flavor despite the lack of marbling. I would choose it over anything off the chuck and sirloin, but had I the choice, I’d choose the ribeye.
So if you find one, as long as it’s cheaper than a N.Y. strip, it’s worth the cost.
And if you’re good, cutting out that center strip of silver might draw the lustful gaze of your lady.
–Simon